Bem Vindo a Lisboa!

Right, Welcome to Lisbon! Sorry for the long hiatus after our previous post from England, We Are Those Merry Wanderers, but Sarah and I decided to return to the US and begin the process for moving to Portugal for Sarah’s full retirement after three years of teaching in India. We had hoped to visit Lisbon as tourists to find the right neighborhood and a flat to rent, but Covid had other plans, keeping the borders closed and showing no signs of improving.

Six suitcases and one guitar ready for their journey from Indianapolis

So, we flew back to Indianapolis, we voted, we got to see our daughters and a few friends–not as many as we would have liked, thank you Covid–and we worked through the steps toward getting the coveted D7 Residence Visa to allow us to fly to Lisbon. First up, we needed FBI background checks to include with our application to the Portuguese Consulate in DC. No problem, since neither Sarah nor I had ever robbed a bank or even gotten a speeding ticket, right? Well, Sarah had one little problem–or actually ten of them–since the FBI check is tied to one’s fingerprints and she had never been able to even to use that touch thingy to activate her iPhone or her laptop or, worse yet, the scanners at the immigration desks at the Chennai airport!

Bags gathered at the Lisbon Airport!

Thankfully, we had discovered a wonderful Facebook group, Americans & Friends in Portugal, where folks going through the same steps to a move to Portugal–and after they were there–shared their experiences and hurdles and successes and where there was a treasure trove of detailed information files. Anyway, we learned that Sarah could improve her chances of success with her prints if we had it done electronically at the Post Office–instead of with ink at a police station–and prepped her hands with Cornhuskers’ Lotion for a few weeks! Who knew?

The view up the street from our flat. Yes, the sky is almost always that clear and that stunning blue!

So, fingers nice and soft and ready, we went bright and early one morning to the main Post Office in downtown Indianapolis and were the first people in the door. Sarah explained her concerns and the delightful lady at the counter said she was an expert and had never failed to get ten good readings. Perfect! Ah, well, she ended up calling in an even greater expert and, together, they gave Sarah 45 minutes and nearly 75 attempts but they finally got ten “acceptable” readings, whew! Then, I stepped up and said this will be easy . . . and my first reading showed I only had nine fingers! At any rate, they managed to find my last finger and we got it done, so we offer many thanks to the gracious team at the main post office Indianapolis!

And the view down the street to the Tejo River—note the azulejo tiles on our building

A few days later, the sealed envelopes with our FBI reports arrived–we had already gotten the online clean results within hours–and of course they had to remain sealed for when you send your application to DC. We completed the rest of the application checklist with the help of highly recommended Timely Solutions, in Lisbon, and we FedExed our package in early December . . . and then the clock started ticking. But only seven weeks to the day later, we received an email letting us know our visa’s were approved and that we should send our passports to DC to have the visa’s inserted! Can you say WOOHOO!!??

All our windows are French doors and my office looks out across the street . . . Will I ever get anything done?
Being watched! The building across the street reflects the giant poster of an upcoming performance at the Teatro Trindade next door to us

Then we got to focus on one of our favorites ever: cleaning out our 15×15 storage space and starting the selection of what to take to Lisbon and what to toss, sell, donate . . . or pretend it didn’t exist! Sarah of course deserves the ultimate patience award, putting up with my constant refrain of “Why in the world did we keep this?” Of course, we were experiencing our first real winter after more than three years in south India, so we loved the frigid temps, the icy walking, and the comfy–not–ambience in the storage space!

Hills and steps indeed! Our walk “up the hill“ from shopping at Mini Preço
Sarah strolls down Rua Garrett, an iconic Chiado street just around the corner

As the days counted down to our early March flight to Lisbon, we turned to the next hurdle, the requirement for a negative Covid test taken within 72 hours of the flight’s departure for Lisbon. No prob, right? Not so fast! Our flight was set to leave Newark at 8:20pm on a Friday, so 72 hours would mean giving our samples no earlier than 8pm or so on Tuesday. But . . . that’s too late to get the samples into an outgoing fedex drop box for that day . . . and the labs all note they will email results within 24 to 48 hours of their receipt of the samples. So, if we take samples the next day–Wednesday–and the lab gets them on Thursday, we might get results on Friday before the flight . . . or not! Anyway, playing the belt and suspenders approach, we ordered three test kit each, and took one on Tuesday and two the next day. To our delight, they all came back in fewer than 24 hours and were all negative, so onward for us!

Still little traffic as we walk toward Praça dos Restauradores—the monument celebrates Portugal’s independence from Spain

Then, it was only a simple matter of packing and repacking and unpacking and weighing suitcases to meet the dreaded 50lb/23kg limit to keep the price at $200 per. Ah, and figuring out how to pack my guitar, which turned out to be rather straightforward. We loved playing the “Do I really need my flippers if the gyms are still closed? If I take out this, what will you leave behind to match it?” But we made it with only six gigantor suitcases and the guitar and off we flew!

The Teatro Nacional at Rossio Square, a few minutes’ walk down the hill
Sarah from the Miradouro de Pedro de Alcântara looking across the city to the Castelo São Jorge

So, here we are, just over a week in lovely Lisbon, starting to settle down in our flat in the Chiado neighborhood in the heart of the city, with theaters and the opera house and cafes and restaurants and a multitude of shops all within walking distance as we get to take part in the “desconfinement” of Lisbon and a return, hopefully to a more typical life for us all. For now, though, we are still under direction to go out only for essential purposes—I’m so glad that Casa Havaneza, the cigar shop around the corner, is clearly essential! At any rate, as things open and activity grows, there will be many, many walkabouts and meals and wines and photos and stories soon to follow as we settle in to life in Portugal . . . And maybe even a flashback or two to update our odyssey in Cornwall and Devon last fall . . .

Sarah scouts Holmes Place, the gym on Avenida da Liberdade, the Mag Mile of Lisbon, where she looks forward to swimming laps soon!

Author: David Hassler

David M. Hassler was fortunate enough to have become a relatively rare male Trailing Spouse when his talented wife Sarah accepted a job teaching music in the elementary division of the American International School in Chennai, India, in 2017. His role included, for more than three years there, serving as her everything wallah, but also allowed him time for exploring, discovering, and sharing new places, new faces, and new tastes around Chennai, throughout south India, and beyond. When the pandemic arrived, Sarah retired and they moved to Lisbon, Portugal, where they continue to live and love life. David M. Hassler is a long-time member of the Indiana Writers Center Faculty and holds an MFA from Spalding University. His work has been published in Maize and the Santa Fe Writers' Project. He served as a Student Editor for The Louisville Review and as Technical Editor for Writing Fiction for Dummies. He is currently the Fiction Editor for Flying Island, an online literary journal. He is co-author of Muse: An Ekphrastic Trio, and Warp, a Speculative Trio, and future projects include A Distant Polyphony, a collection of linked stories about music and love, memories and loss; and To Strike a Single Hour, a Civil War novel that seeks the truth in one of P T Barnum's creations. He is a founding partner in Boulevard Press.

29 thoughts on “Bem Vindo a Lisboa!

  1. So wonderful to hear all the details of how to get that Visa added to your passport! The photographs of Lisboa are stunning! Can hardly wait to see more!

  2. A wonderful update indeed and a such a dream you two have lived. Be safe and well. Hello to Sarah please.

  3. Thank you for posting! Love the clear blue skies and the humor in the process of deciding which item to bring and which to leave. Hope that you are settle nicely soon and that things will open up and activity return!
    Keep Posting!!
    Jane Hoch

  4. Sarah, so excited for you and David. I enjoyed reading about your adventures in India and now look forward to the sights, sounds and tastes of Portugal. Warm regards, Barbie Schmenner

  5. I enjoyed reading about your adventures in India and now look forward to the sights, sounds and tastes of Portugal. Warm regards, Barbie Schmenner

  6. I’m so happy that you have resumed posting. I lived vicariously through you in India and now intend to do the same in Portugal. Stay safe, healthy and happy.

  7. Dave and Sarah,
    Congratulations on arrival in Lisbon, which truly shows that discipline and perseverance pays off! Photos are lovely.
    Best to you both,
    Mike

  8. I’m so glad you’re there safely! I’ll be hanging on your every word until I can come visit and see it all for myself:-)

  9. I cannot get over that bright blue sky! Lisbon seems fantastic. So glad you both are doing well, and wishing you guys lots of fun and safe adventures!

  10. Lovely to hear of your travels! I hope you enjoy Portugal- you will certainly have many photographic opportunities- My best to you both!

  11. Excellent start to what will be many, many tales of life in your new hometown. I can’t wait to read your impressions of the unique corners and the culture of Lisbon and beyond. You’ll be busy getting to know the city and county in the months and even years to come. Enjoy it all.

  12. Congratulations! A beautiful couple, city and story. You’re an inspiration to me. I intend to visit in 2022 and move in about 2-3 years. Enjoy!

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